If you are looking to defrag from an intense year of work but don’t have the time, such as the 6 months needed to achieve something (?!?) that resembles the de-stressed original version of you, then a week in Octopus Resort may be your answer.

Situated on Waya Island at the beginning of the Yasawa Island group in western Fiji, Octopus offers insight to what locals call the real Fiji. Leased to management by the Nalauwaki village residing over the hill behind the resort, many of their residents look after your hospitality needs.

Niko makes a killer Pina Colada and Mere will make sure there will be no bouts of anaphylaxis on her watch repeatedly asking about any allergies or food requirements. My response “soy and apples” did raise an eyebrow, however clearly was not a problem for the chef who has cooked/seen it all. Expect to pay a fixed daily meal plan that allows you a choice of quality western food (but you won’t look at your pizza and risotto the same ever again) and, my preference, Fijian and Indian dishes. Lovo, curries, Kokoda, grilled Mahi Mahi, and cassava chips made from island produce are all able to be washed down with the local Fijian bitter which is refreshingly welcome after a day soaking in the ocean.

Spanning Likuliku bay, those who are privileged to have a beach bure or villa will marvel at the fine grain white coral sand (which one diver delighted in telling me was “coral trout poo”). This is plentiful everywhere – even on the restaurant floor. Literally wake up, walk out of your thatched (but air-conditioned – thank GOD!) bure, grab your snorkel and goggles and enter from the beach a heritage protected colourful hard coral reef. This is welcome news to anyone who has had to travel long distances from their  overpriced hotel room to see reef of this quality (a trip out to the Great Barrier Reef off Cape Tribulation comes to mind – so does the safety briefing “Welcome to FNQ – where everything here is out to kill you!”).

Fish and coral
Underwater reef shot – Likuliku Bay Reef, Waya Island, Yasawas, Fiji

Clearly unaffected by cyclones and tourist impact, tropical fish of all colours, shapes and sizes populate plate, staghorn, brain, and other corals that would keep a latin teacher occupied for hours in pronouncing them alone. In short, a sensory assault more so assisted by the clarity of the water (at least 30 metre visibility) and sunny skies with light to no wind. The resort is not only protected by the hills of the island, but also by the Fiji mainland therefore offering consistent weather (good) and very little surge in the water (if at all). In other words, the champagne of snorkelling experiences with no sea lice, jellyfish or man-eating sharks. Used to seeing reef sharks becoming active either on the change of the tide or sunrise/sunset, I saw only one on my first snorkel experience – a shy little black tipped reefie who gave me 5 seconds of eyeball time before going home back to the shark cave … or wherever sharks like to go … preferably not attracted to the schools of baitfish that insisted on encircling me throughout the week.  Although visibly fascinating, I did not want to be that headliner in The Fiji Times and quickly took my photos and swam away. In the early morning and late afternoon, baitfish were leaping out of the water on masse and I did not want to meet the animal responsible for their Sea World impersonations. Likewise night snorkelling was on offer –  although initially down to go, a storm erupted from nowhere and I figured lightning and water was not a great mix unless I wanted a permanent suntan. No matter – the string band (guitars, ukele and vocals) was more than welcome to listen to after our fabulous meals. (BTW there is only one restaurant with a small drinks bar, plus the Coconut bar a … well … coconut’s throw from the restaurant, right on the beach next to the beach volleyball court).

Overall the amenities were very simple – but this was welcome as it encouraged a very laidback feel and the dress code while respectful (cover your rude bits) meant there was no pressure to “dress up” or wear makeup giving it a “me casa your casa” approach to the village lifestyle. As a couple – be sure to book your table for two for dinner time (there are only four) or be prepared to be seated at the communal tables. Not a bad thing – we met lovely people from Germany, Israel, America and many Australians (which given the two points of separation thank-you Facebook, meant that someone knew someone who knew you and a friendly vibe was immediately established). Christmas was just delightful, the local award winning choir impressed all by singing in four-part harmony at the beginning of dinner, a feast was served complete with French champagne on the house. We went to our comfortable bed full of coconut and good cheer and woke the next day thankfully none the worse for wear. I credit the salt air and peaceful surrounds.

Our bure was a traditional Fijian thatched house, but with a galvanised roof in place to perhaps ward off island vermin such as rats (didn’t see them – but heard they could be a “thing” if you left food out). It was appreciated during the odd night-time tropical storm. We gave thanks to the Saint of Mini-bars – the first round was complimentary – local beer, water and softdrinks helped one follow the advice of one of the F&B managers to be water-wise “drink beer, not water”.

The enclosed outdoor bathroom in the bure was energising. Holidaying in late December meant there was a reasonable humidity by Queensland standards (toned down by the sea breezes) and I don’t think I would have appreciated a steamy bathroom. The midnight toilet run was usually accompanied by tisk tisk tisk-ing geckos and the morning shower was often visited by one or two cheeky wasps looking for a drink (one freaked me out by picking up a large caterpillar and placing it whole in its mudhouse …).

Some unusual discrepancies – complimentary bathrobes and slippers but no bedside table lamps (my booklight was handy). The wifi was free up to 200MB, but expect some of the locals to capitalise on it by lying on your daybed and checking their iPhone – me casa your casa. We did not really care – as checking email was not a priority. Be mindful that the bures are not soundproof – or perhaps it was the overly excited Texans in the bure next to us that insisted on documenting their every move in particularly loud voices on their first day. They went on the guided hike and we never saw them again (we heard it was treacherous in parts …). Oh well J

Daily activities abound such as basket weaving (that would have been useful for me about three months prior to the holiday), Fijian cooking classes, village/church visit, jewellery making etc but we maintained our circuit of bure-food-reef-food-beach-food-daybed-food-bure and repeat with random cocktail bar visitation.

The bill – well … paradise ain’t cheap. Expect a 25% surcharge on all expenses and be resigned that they have you by the short and curlies as you are effectively on an island in the middle of the South Pacific with limited creative/safe ways of leaving it. But rest-assured, a good chunk of your payment goes towards the village children’s education and there have been some wonderful developments  http://www.octopusresortfiji.com/community.

Would we go back? In a heartbeat. What would we bring next time? Definitely more bottles of wine – as much as duty free will allow, another pair of togs (two was not enough – although they did dry ok), book lamps, a broom to sweep out excess sand (the daily housekeeping was effective, but that stuff comes out of everywhere if you know what I mean), my own snorkel and goggles (the hire ones were fine – but had been used a lot), and definitely some snacks to eat between meals if you are determined to put on some holiday weight. Did we see an octopus? No – but we’ll try again next time.

Octopus Resort – Vinaka vaka levu.


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Spanning Likuliku bay, those who are privileged to have a beach bure or villa will marvel at the fine grain white coral sand (which one diver delighted in telling me was “coral trout poo”).

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